Saturday, May 31, 2008

Things I Love about Vietnam!

Once again, Lynn and I packed our bags for our 2nd Indochina trip. This time, it was to the land of motorcycles - Vietnam! I've had a couple of friends asking me to share my Vietnam itinerary with them, so before I start having memory blackouts, here it is!

Day 1 - Arrived in Hanoi at night. Too late for anything except a quick supper.
Day 2 - City tour, which included the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, one pillar pagoda and temple of literature. In the afternoon, we wandered aimlessly along the confusing streets of the Old Quarters.
Day 3 - Departed early in the morning by bus to Halong jetty for our 1-night Halong Bay cruise escapade.
Day 4 - Arrived in Hanoi late afternoon, shopping at the Old Quarters.
Day 5 - Domestic flight to Danang, headed to the Marble Mountains by taxi, then Hoi An (1 hour from airport). Late lunch at the hotel, followed by casual stroll in Hoi An heritage town.
Day 6 - Continued to explore the heritage town. Mid-afternoon, tanned ourselves on the golden beaches of Hoi An.
Day 7 - Domestic flight to Hue, transferred to hotel by taxi which took us via the scenic Hai Van pass and Lang Co beach (3 hours). Early afternoon, visited the Imperial Palace, Citadel and the sprawling Dong Ba market. Rest of the day was spent wandering along the south bank of the Perfume river. Ended the day with a mighty fine massage at our hotel.
Day 8 - Domestic flight back to Hanoi. Took the public minibus to Old Quarters and almost lost our way! Last dinner in Hanoi before we flew back to Singapore at night.

For those of Facebook, I've already posted some pictures of the trip. Facebook is getting too slow and hard to use lately. I spent about 2-3 days posting a miserable count of 60 photos! Bleh. Gonna post them to my blog instead next time. In any case, I will try to cover the Vietnam trip from a different perspective (since the main attractions are already on Facebook), a more personal insight, if you like and different pictures, of course! :)

Here are my favourite highlights of the trip!

1. Culinary delights

I dig Vietnamese food, seriously. A street cafe can whip up the best Pho - beef noodles in soup (pronounced fur) I've ever tasted. And the best thing about Pho in Vietnam? They don't come with the mountain of bean sprouts that you'll find in the same dish locally.

So anyway, whatever you taste in Vietnam is bound to be pretty good, and the price is decent too. Our only complaint about food was on our Halong Bay cruise (which, by the way, was a complete rip-off). The seafood dinner which we were promised comprised fried fish fillet (instead of a proper steamed fish), crab claw (where's my salted egg yoke crab?), you get the drift...

Our choice of meals were guided by what our palates desired, the Lonely Planet guidebook, and friends' recommendations. From the expensive Bobby Chinn's and Green Tangerine to the moderately priced cafes overlooking the river in Hoi An, to the uber cheap street hawker porridge and desserts, everything we tasted tantalised and tingled our tastebuds.

Supper at Bobby Chinn's, serving Western-Asian fusion cuisine. The decor was very oriental, think red lanterns and drapes. Food was pricey but definitely yums. Lynn and I had the foie gras, burger and creme brulee.

Green Tangerine. Housed in a colonial building with a lovely courtyard. Pricey menu and best bet (and value) seemed to be the 4 course Vietnamese set menu.


Dinner in one of the cafes on Bach Dang road overlooking the river. We had our meals in Hong Phuc twice and one dinner at Cafe Des Amis, where the resident chef, Mr Kim whips up different dishes everyday. There is no menu, you just choose between the vegetarian, meat and seafood set. As we were the first customers in the restaurant, Mr Kim took pains to introduce each dish to us and showed us exactly how they should be eaten (although at times, I wished he didn't as he was using his (unwashed) hands to handle our food!) He was a red-faced and chatty man who was very eager to show us the compliments his previous customers had left behind. Of course, he was not a tad shy in showcasing his past culinary experience, which includes working as a food taster in the Vietnamese army.

One of the many cafes lined up along Bach Dang road at night.

Day view of the river.

Some might say that sampling street food is a must when one travels. We were tempted, indeed, but the risk of diarrhoea and food poisoning was too serious to ignore. The thing about street eating is that the stallholders would, 99% of the time, not be conversant in English. So we had to resort to finger pointing and rephrasing ourselves in as many times as required to get ourselves understood!

Nonetheless, we did try out some Vietnamese porridge and cow's offals (which we bought and hardly touched) at this street stall in Hue.

And desserts on the pavement of the Old Quarters.

Lynn's loving the desserts!


2. Revolutionary art - Propaganda posters


"As with many communist nations, the tradition of graphic propaganda in Vietnam predates its national independence. Propaganda art is hopelessly intertwined with the nation’s struggle to achieve and maintain its independence. In accordance with the Leninist dogma, propaganda assumes its rightful station as the sole validation and ultimate goal of all art."
- adapted from http://www.aiga.org/content.cfm/art-of-the-vietnam-war-the-vietnamese-view

It is also said that during the Vietnam War, the artists painted for political purposes, to raise spirits, and troops for the fronts.

You can find lots and lots of propaganda posters here!

Another quirky shops with cool t-shirts, magnets, shot glasses and other paraphernalias that would make great souvenirs!

Propaganda billboards...promoting nationalistic pride?

Prevention of HIV/AIDS?


3. Beaches of Hoi An


On Day 4, we checked ourselves into the Swiss-belhotel Golden Sands Resort, a 5-star establishment with a private beach! Ooh La La! The beach was clean, neat and best of all, we didn't have to pay a single cent for the use of the beach chairs! In comparison, I would concede that Thai beaches still win hands down with their fine, white sand and clear waters.

After the sun has set...

Excited little girls!


4. Vintage and quirky finds


We stumbled upon this quirky shop at the Old Quarters - Noda. Wished I could buy everything in the shop, they were so lovely! And I loved the handmade bears made out of pretty checkered and striped fabric, complete with the ubiquitous conical hat!

These retro lanterns are handmade in the town of Hoi An and you can get a medium-sized one for US$2 and the smaller ones at US$1. Lynn and I went into almost every lantern shop wanting to buy some back home but we bought none in the end. Bummer!

Vintage petrol kiosks.

Really cool vintage cars found in our hotel - La Residence Hotel and Spa. The best hotel we stayed in during our trip!

5.Alleys and walls

Don't ask me why, but I think these simple, uncomplicated walls and alleys provide an awesome backdrop for photography.

This is Lynn, my photographic muse.

Isn't she lovely?

Ain't she cute?

Where's Lynn?

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Day 2 & 3: Grandeur of the pagodas

Yangon is, indeed, the land of the golden pagodas. These elegant structures dot the entire country! One common characteristic is the bell-shaped form they all take, varying only in size, details and importance. We marvelled at these majestic pagodas, but towards the end of the trip, we were suffering from pagoda overkill :)

Bago, located 80km from Yangon.

Maha-zedi pagoda, Bago

Shwemawdaw pagoda, Bago


Pretty pagoda perched on the hilltop - unknown


Shwedagon pagoda, Yangon

If there's a pagoda which you can't miss, it's this 98-metre gilded stupa located in Yangon. It is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda for the Burmese with relics of the past four Buddhas enshrined within. According to our local guide "Win", the locals believe that the 5th buddha will emerge very soon!

The crown of the stupa is tipped with diamonds and rubies!


Pigeons getting their wings singed in their haste to get to some food.

Praying to the gods.

Holy water.

Offerings to the gods.

Yangon - Day 1 : A Wet Affair


Yangon was, to say the least, an eye opener for me. It started with a blackout at the airport while we were waiting for our baggage. Not surprisingly, this was a first for my travel companions and I. Our astounded reaction elicited a comment from a local standing nearby - "Welcome to Yangon." This definitely paved the way for more to come...

Having just checked in at our 4-star hotel Parkroyal, we were very enthusiastic to explore the city. Alas, the weather was not on our side. It poured and poured and we had to seek shelter in a small temple. Even after 30 minutes, the rain refused to ebb and we slushed our way back to our hotel in the heavy rain, getting our shoes and pants all wet.


City of Yangon

The buildings in Yangon are old but yet they managed to retain their colonial charm. I was most captivated by the occassional colour that presented itself amidst the dull gloom of the city.


Manouvering the streets of Yangon turned out to be quite a challenge, especially since I was trying so darn hard to distance myself from birds. It seems that pigeons, or perhaps birds in general, hold special significance in Yangon, no doubt associated with the predominant religion here - Buddhism.

Pigeons roosting all over this colonial structure.

A country dotted with hundreds and hundreds of golden bell-shaped pagodas. The Sule pagoda, set against a backdrop of commercial buildings but nonetheless emanating a tranquil aura in contrast to the buzz of the city.

Squeezing into a public vehicle meant that the passengers had to cling to the edge of the bus/van in peril.

Peddling flowers on the street.

This antique elevator, complete with a brass gate, is housed in a very posh hotel - The Strand. I begged a hotel staff to take me in it. What a thrill!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Scratch scratch

Suppressing an itch, in my opinion, is one of the most intolerable things in life. It's infinitely worse than suppressing a yawn, or a cough, or even a sneeze. Imagine starting to itch at various parts of your body. You gather your concentration and focus on the most mundane activity you happen to be on to, like twiddling your fingers or twirling your hair, all in the hope that your thoughts (and fingers) will, like a heartless lover, forget the offending itch. However, the itchy itch consumes you and before you know it, you start scratching at the affected area, slowly at first but picking up gusto as you savour the immense pleasure the scratches bring. To me, a scratch is worth every bit of broken skin in return!

Not surprisingly (I seem to be rather prone to insect bites and such), I came back from Yangon last week with what looked like rashes on the back of both my arms. They were helluva itchy, and spread rather quickly to my legs, feet, tummy and middle back. Over the past week, I saw my GP 3 times, some moron at Mount E (more on this later) and a skin specialist. I've been through anti-itch pills that progressed from "not drowsy" to "may cause drowsiness" to "helps sleep". I was administered the anti-lice treatment, which invariably made me feel like some skanky mongrel. I was given an anti-histamine jab, which took 2 days to take effect so over the weekend, I was actually under the fake illusion that the rashes were getting better! And last but not least, I have a handful of topical and oral steroids, which threaten to induce side effects like "rounding out of the face", "wounds that will not heal" and "your skin condition gets worse".

The back of my arms are officially raw and swollen from scratching. Some of the red blobs have turned the colour of pigeon's blood (pretty apt since pigeon's blood rubies originate from Burma). I have some new rash on the back of my thigh and neck. Behind my back, my manager has been asking around if my rashes are contagious. I dare not look strangers in the eye as I am ashamed (haha okay I made this up). I have efficiently purchased 6 identical brand new cotton long-sleeved tops in candy colours from Cotton On to tide me over for the next few weeks.

And I must say they were quite a steal.....Cotton On rocks!